UVIVFL Setup

[Damon]

Here is my current configuration regarding UVIVFL. I have one more Blak-ray coming that I got off fleabay for $39. Full metal one not plastic housing. I prefer the plastic. Overkill maybe but I doubt I will ever have "too much UV" for my pictures--just turn some off. Plus when and if I get to looking Reeeaaaaly close at some things, I may need the extra light. I am letting others wander around at night with these too so it helps to have a few.

 

Feel free to post your current setup as I would love to see what other people have put together. Don't worry if your rig is homespun and not high tech/expensive (or backwoods like mine). The only thing I have paid for are the lights--and I got all 3 for ~ $300. And if you are patient, you can get them pretty cheap, especially the metal housed ones. Everything else most photographers will already have--ie. a camera. :) I put my rig in one side of an old shed as you can plainly see. I am sure it will change over time. If you have any suggestions, feel free to post them as I have no ego to bruise. We are all here to learn from each other.

Although Blak-Rays are not "super bright", they don't have any discernible visible light and seem to fluoresce tons of stuff and also allow nice colors.

 

I have blasted these little yellow guys for a few nights now and they are still as healthy as ever.

 

 

It's been pretty fun so far getting it together and having it actually work is nice too.

 

 

-D

[Damon]

Here is my 93mm extension tube setup. :)

--Canon Extension Tube 25 EFII (25mm)

--Kenko DG Auto Extension Tube Set (12mm, 20mm, 36mm)

--100mm Canon Macro lens

 

I need to move the whole contraption back so it is centered on the tripod but the support beam I have hits the back flange of the focusing rail. I might take the back off the rail just temporarily.

 

 

 

 

-D

[colinbm]

Looking good Damon

I did some stacking a while ago & I set up the focusing rail with an astro focusing motor, for fine adjustment & remotely operated so as to not to disturb the camera etc...

 

 

Focus Stacking Motor Drive, rail, motor & control.

In the fast setting the rail moves about 0.6mm per press & in slow speed the rail moves about 0.16mm per press.

The rail is a FotoMate LP-01 [link] & the motor & control is from Skywatcher or Orion [link]

Three lengths of rails & can be cross mounted too [link]

 

Col

[Damon]

Cool Col, thanks.

Did you ever find that the camera mirror slapping around caused any blurring of your image?

 

I think my rail setup will work but I am interested in that motor. I will have to take a close look at the fit on the end of it and if it would work with my rail.

 

-D

[colinbm]

Yep, the more hands off you can be the better.

Mirror lock-up, remote shutter, & remote rail :)

You will need to remove the knob on the rail & attach the focusing motor to the shaft.

Col

[Shane]

Nice setup Damon.

I have used the Blak Ray lamps in the past and found them to be quite useful but care needs to be taken.

Although Blak-Rays are not "super bright", they don't have any discernible visible light

Visible light leakage may not be discernible by eye but the camera may easily pick it up, especially broadband modified DSLRs. An unmodified DSLR may eliminate it depending on the cut-offs of the ICF.

I have characterized the emission of the Blak Ray extensively. There is a light leakage at 405nm and 668nm which can be an issue when photographing weak fluorescence at those regions. It can easily be checked for by photographing a chromed ball bearing under the same exposure conditions as your subject.

Also, if you go into a completely dark room and test the ball bearing with your Blak Ray you may be able to see a magenta colour, this is of course the reflection of the blue and red light leakage. Some people have trouble seeing it because the eye is not so sensitive to blue and red and the blue sensitivity degrades with age.

[Damon]

Interesting Shane. So the woods filters in all the Blak-Rays have this particular leakage? All my UVIVFL cameras are unmodified. So what happens if I photograph a chrome ball bearing under the same conditions. What should I look for? Will there be a glare like visible light is coming off it?

 

I suppose If I am thinking something should be fluorescing more I can do the ball test.

So the 365 nm hits the subject and it then emits visible wavelengths, which I can photograph fine except for those particular ones (405nnm & 668nm) because the Blak-rays are leaking those thus washing out the fluorescence?

 

-Damon

[Shane]

In a totally dark room, if their is no visible leakage from the Blak Ray, then the ball bearing will not be visible.

Leakage typically gives the ball bearing a magenta colour.

It does not wash out visible fluorescence but contributes reflected visible light to fluorescence emission.

Its effects are only apparent when working with weak fluorescence.

On some cameras the ICF is strong enough to remove the 405nm completely and reduce the 668nm significantly.

All the Blak Rays using the "Woods" filter exhibit this problem, or at least they used to.

[Damon]

Shane, I ended up discussing this in another thread.

http://www.ultravioletphotography.com/content/index.php/topic/1125-sand-fluorescing-red/

 

-D

[Damon]

Update on evolving UVIVFL setup:

 

Added a micro focuser to my Minolta focusing rail. Tried it twice and it works beautifully (thanks Col for the idea). No more trying to turn the focusing wheel when shooting @5X or similar macro. Took some rigging but I got it going. I could not for the life of me get the main wheel off the Minolta so I used adhesive and it works just fine. Super fine focusing is possible now. That Minolta rail is turning out to be darn fine piece of machining. Between that and my remote shutter using mirror lock--I should be in the running for some good pics--especially when stacking--which I am finding to be pretty fun.

 

I also added some snake clamp deals to my bench area. Essentially a metal hose conduit that is flexible but extremely strong for it's size. See pic.

I just added my own clamp which turns 360 degrees. Instead of buying a weight for it I just attached it to some bolted together old brake drums and viola--it's not tipping over for sure. I have 2 of them.

 

Last but not least I added a small scissor like platform that adjust from way flat to ~10" high. I was getting tired of stacking stuff up trying to get the right level. I put a piece of black recycled plastic on top to minimize possible glare and it works great.

 

Clamp

 

Focuser attachment

This has a cord usually coming out of the back which goes to the focusing controller

 

Bench Lab Jack

 

-D

[colinbm]

Cool man this Damon, you have got it all now :)

This x-y table is useful on the scissor lift table, just under 8 x 3" http://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/27100.php

Col